Sepulchritude Forum: The Absinthe Forum Archives Thru July 2001: Topics Archived thru March 2001:Prague
By Netsurfer on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 09:50 pm: Edit

Xiu, you are going to love Prague (Praha). Get yourself a 7 day pass for the Metro (its good for the trams and busses as well). Getting around the city is easy by public transit. Use the trams as a way to tour. You can get the pass at the Metro stations in the Tabak or at stands off Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske namesti.)

You might want to consider paying the approx. 700 Kr for a tour to Kutna Hora while you are there - it is a neat little town and the drive itself (which takes about an hour) is a way to see a little bit of the country outside of Prague itself.

Five days isn't very long at all, but its a good start. Since you will be there on/after April 1st those gardens and castles which are closed in winter (Oct thru March) will be open. (I went this February, and found several closed.)

My favorite view: night view from Smetanovo Nabrezi across the Vltava of Prazky Hrad (Prague Castle.)

And you could stop by Slavia for a sip of Absinthe if you want upscale.

Be sure and tour the Cathedrals while you are there - they are spectacular.

By Midas on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 07:06 pm: Edit

Talk about synchronicity, I am in the middle of researching Reinhard Heydrich at the moment.
Curiouser and curiouser...

By Xiu on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 06:38 am: Edit

thanx everyone for the precious info!! i think i'll love prague: it's got a very decadent feel...
i'll stay only five days, but can't wait to leave!

By Bjacques on Thursday, March 15, 2001 - 07:42 am: Edit


Heydrich was smart and charming and knew his way around the hierarchy. He chaired the Wannsee conference in which the Final Solution was worked out.The British certainly knew he was worth picking off, though he almost got away. Had Heydrich lived, he might have passed into evil legend like Bormann or escaped entirely, like Mengele. On the other hand, Heydrich didn't stop Hitler from opening a second front, so I'll withdraw my earlier statement as being excessively glib.

Anyway, you can still see the bullet holes in the church wall facing the street. The partisans were betrayed but still took a few of the enemy down with them. The German tossed a grenade in there and that was that.

By Bob_Chong on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 08:28 pm: Edit

Quote: "...the only truly dangerous Nazi..."

Huh? The others were benign? Maybe it's a language thing...


By Bjacques on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 01:15 pm: Edit

Ok, here are some less vague details about Prague.

Some of the buildings that look most ostblocky are actually from the 1920s and '30s, in the monumental movement. These would be the Manes House (bottom of Slovansky Ostrov=island) and the Cenotaph, the big white block by the Zizkov statue on that hill.

Spend a day or two on the high side of the river, from the gardens, to Prague Castle, to the Metronome, to Cafe Expo 58 (with the dawg).

The only crap beer you'll get there is Lobkowicz.

The overpriced absinthe shop was at or near Jilska 22, I think through the same doorway as music store Maximum Underground.

In restaurants, Beware the charge for entry and bread. Like the "pane e coperto" of Italy, it's an annoying extra nibble. Touch the bread and it goes on your bill. Tip is never more than 10%, no matter what they say. There's a restaurant (forgot the name. Staromesta?) on the old square just opposite the astronomical clock. Food is good and reasonable, but they add up your bill with a 20% tip. If the service was good, hold firm. If they argue, make it 5% or nothing.

Those great bars are actually *east* of the center, in the working-class district of Vinohrady, along the Green Line near metro Jirziho v Podebrad. Akropolis is at Kubelikova 27. Outside of Metro Jirziho, cross the square with the church in it and go about 5 blocks. When you get to Kubelikova, turn right and walk a few blocks. This is the neighborhood with lots of cool bars and really cheap beer prices. There are bars on Borzivojova street. There was also a punk/goth/misc hangout on the bend of Borzivojova. What's great is that even if these have disappeared (Akropolis has been around awhile), lots of other bars pop up there.

A little closer to the center is Radost/FX cafe, Belehradska 120, 3 blocks east on Jugoslavska' (slightly uphill) and then turn left at Belehradska'. Great scrambled eggs and potatoes for breakfast. It's sort of an alternative arty bar.

In the center:

Marquis de Sade, Templova 8, Metro Namesti Republiky. Not as exciting as its name, but worth a lazy beer. Lovely red, high-ceilinged interior.

Cafe Imperial Kaverna (meaning coffeehouse). Na Porici 15, metro Namesti Republicky. Open 9am-1am every day. Faded Austro-Hungarian splendor. Tiled Art Nouveau eye candy, brassy jazz over the PA. Dark, fluted wood, potted palms and large windows. Good for coffee. There's an old sign that reads as follows: "SPECIAL OFFER Saturnini's bowl 1943 Kc bowl of yesterday's donuts that you can throw at other customers / served only to sober persons more than 21 years of age. Payment in advance required." Nearby, at #24, is the proto-ostbloc Czeskoslovenska Obchodni Bank


Studio A Rubin, Malostranska Namesti 9, Metro Metro Malostranska Namesti. Cozy though brightly-lit hangout. Good, cheap beer and a hangout for locals and expats, not just tourists. Somewhere near there is U Sva Tomas, a touristy underground bar.

In the daytime, have a beer in the proto-ostbloc ostbloc grand cafe Manes, at the foot of Slovansky Ostrov. Then walk 1 block toward the Fed & Ginger buildings at Resslova and take a left. walk three blocks and pass the Church of Saints Cyril & Methodosius. It's where the partisans who killed the only truly dangerous Nazi Reinhard Heydrich in 1942 holed up before dying in a shootout. Pay your respects.

Food (lotsa meat):

Reykavik. Karlova 20. Good fish and salad dishes.

A restaurant whose name I forget, but is somewhere near Dlouha and Tynska, has a statue of a hooded executioner. It's great! I enjoyed a pork dish called Devil's Hoof there.

U Govindy Vegetarian Club is supposed to have good, cheap veggie food. Soukenicka 27, open 11-5 Mon-Sat. The Terminal Bar used to be a little farther, at #6. It had a cybercafe, obscure hipster books, and videos. Alas, it fell victim to ISP consolidation. A larger ISP bought the cybercafe's connection and shut down the cafe. Maybe it's reopened, but I doubt it.


By Germanandy on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 10:09 pm: Edit

you can also get some krasna lipa absinthe in some shops, costs about 15- 20$.
it is the only czech absinthe i can recommend (except the other sebor absinthe).


By Bjacques on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 11:36 am: Edit

I've been there twice. March/April is a good time to go, since it's not too hot yet. A lot of little grocery shops (potraviny) have Hill's and sometimes Zelezna. Some of the nicer liquor shops also have Staroplzenecky ("Old Pilsener"), which is much better and costs the equivalent of $15 or so. I found King of Absinthe at a touristy absinthe shop not far from the old town square. It was about $40, which was too much. Also, their prices for the two other brands were about 50% higher there. Feh. I saved my money and scored a couple of Dean Reed albums and some overpriced commie holiday snapshots instead. I picked up Staroplzenecky at a shop on a street below Wenceslas Square, along the old vegetable market.

I'll try to dig up addresses.

There was a good art/cybercafe called Cafe9, on Dlouha' #38, next to The Ritz I think.

There are a LOT of cool little bars to the north of the city center, off the Green Line I think. There's the Acropolis, which is 3 or 4 bars in one. Also in the area is the Thirsty Dog. A lot of these bars disappear quickly, but since last October maybe these haven't. Also, try the Shot-Out Eye, in a neigborhood at the foot of the hill with the statue of local hero Jan Zizek, who won a battle after having lost an eye. I never found it, but learned later I'd been close to it.

If you like decayed Ostbloc things, you'll love Prague. It's got a mixture of Austria-Hungarian Art Nouveau, Eastern Bloc, and ultra-modern, like Frank Gehry's "Fred & Ginger" building on the river. Up along the river, on a bluff past the big metronome, are the ruins of Expo '58, a classic ostbloc, hard currency cafe, guarded by a scary-looking but really nice German Shepherd. Bring a dry treat for him.

More later, if I get a chance.

By Xiu on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 01:19 pm: Edit

i'll try it if i find myself there. i'm studying the city center at the moment... do you know also absinthe shops?

By Alphasoixante on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 03:48 pm: Edit

if you're interested in hearing live jazz, you might try the Metropolitan. i've only been there once, but it seemed to be frequented by locals--less touristy than a lot of prague. if i remember correctly it had a nice underground cellar feel to it. very pleasant and lowkey, down-to-earth. the music was quite good too.

By Xiu on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 12:57 pm: Edit

Hi everybody! I'm new and... wanted to present myself! Ok... I'm Xiu and I have a question! Since I'm going to Prague for some days at the end of March/beginning of April I was wondering if someone had any kind of advice on good shops... I don't know the city yet, never been there, but maybe someone did... Do you know interesting places to visit? also not absinthe-related? thanx!

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